Roof Insulation: Types & Costs
Key roof build-ups (how insulation is placed)
- Warm Roof (above deck/over rafters) — Continuous rigid boards above structure; keeps deck and structure warm.
- Cold Roof (between/below rafters) — Insulation within/under rafters; ventilated void above.
- Inverted Roof (flat roofs) — Waterproofing under the insulation; XPS on top with ballast/pavers.
- Hybrid Roof — Combination (e.g., between rafters + a thin continuous layer over/below to cut thermal bridges).
- Green Roof build-up — Insulation as part of a vegetated roof system (extensive/intensive).
Main insulation materials
- Mineral Wool (glass/rock) — Batts/rolls for between rafters; non-combustible, sound-absorbing.
- PIR/PUR Rigid Boards — High thermal performance per thickness; ideal for warm roofs.
- XPS Rigid Boards — Moisture-resistant, compressive strength; used in inverted roofs/terraces.
- EPS Rigid Boards — Cost-effective; various densities for pitched/flat roofs.
- Cellulose (blown-in) — Recycled fiber blown into cavities; good for retrofits.
- Spray Foam (open- or closed-cell) — Air-sealing + insulation in one; requires expert design/ventilation strategy.
- Reflective Foil Layers — Radiant barriers/foils as part of systems; not stand-alone insulation.
- VIP (Vacuum Panels) — Very thin, high R; niche, detail-sensitive.
Where each shines
- Warm Roof + PIR/EPS: New build or full re-roof; best thermal continuity (few bridges).
- Cold Roof + Mineral Wool/Cellulose: Loft conversions/retrofit where above-deck access is limited.
- Inverted Roof + XPS: Flat roofs with pavers/ballast, terraces, podiums.
- Hybrid: Upgrades where you must control condensation and cut bridging without full strip.
- Green Roof: Noise attenuation, summer heat buffering, stormwater benefits.
Pros & cons (at a glance)
Warm Roof (rigid boards over deck)
- + Minimal thermal bridges; protects structure from condensation; ideal for low-slope roofs.
- − Higher upfront %, roof height details to solve (eaves, parapets).
Cold Roof (between rafters)
- + Easier/cheaper in retrofits; materials widely available.
- − Thermal bridges at rafters; needs reliable ventilation to avoid condensation.
Inverted Roof (XPS above waterproofing)
- + Membrane protected; easy overlay/refurb; ideal under paving.
- − Heavier; needs ballast/drainage layer; careful edge/stone retention.
Hybrid
- + Balances cost and performance; improves dew-point safety.
- − More layers/details; coordination effort.
Material notes
- Mineral Wool: + Non-combustible, acoustic; − needs perfect vapor/air control.
- PIR/PUR: + High R per mm; − fire/smoke specs vary—use rated boards & overlays.
- XPS: + Water/pressure resistant; − lower R/mm than PIR, combustibility consideration.
- EPS: + Best value; − thicker for same U-value vs PIR.
- Cellulose: + Fills gaps well, eco; − moisture management crucial.
- Spray Foam: + Air seal + insulation; − hard to reverse; ventilation/condensation design is critical.
Cost guide (percentages only; baseline = Cold Roof with Mineral Wool between rafters = 0%)
(Combined materials + typical installation for comparable U-value; ranges vary by thickness, access, roof complexity.)
- Warm Roof (PIR rigid over deck): +20–45% vs baseline
- Warm Roof (EPS rigid over deck): +10–30% vs baseline
- Hybrid (between rafters + thin PIR over/below): +15–35% vs baseline
- Inverted Roof (XPS + ballast/pavers): +25–55% vs baseline
- Cellulose blown-in (cold roof cavities): −5–+15% vs baseline
- Spray Foam (pitched roof interior): +25–60% vs baseline
- VIP inserts (localized thin build-ups): +150–300% vs baseline (niche)
Lifecycle/maintenance over ~15–20 yrs
- Warm Roof (PIR/EPS): −5–15% vs baseline (fewer condensation/repair issues)
- Inverted XPS (under pavers): −5–10% vs baseline (membrane protected)
- Spray Foam: 0–10% vs baseline (low routine care, but hard to modify)
- Cellulose/Mineral Wool: 0–5% vs baseline (check ventilation & vapor control)
Energy impact (annual heating/cooling) for same U-value but better air-tightness/bridging control
- Warm/Hybrid vs Cold: typically −5–15% energy use vs baseline (due to reduced thermal bridges + improved airtightness)
Risks & how to avoid them
- Condensation (all roofs): Wrong vapor control or missed ventilation void.
- Fix: Hygrothermal/dew-point check; correct vapor control layer (VCL) placement; maintain vent paths in cold roofs.
- Thermal bridges at rafters/parapets:
- Fix: Add continuous over/under-rafter layer (hybrid/warm), insulate upstands/edges.
- Air leakage:
- Fix: Continuous airtight layer; tape penetrations; service cavity under VCL.
- Wet insulation during install (MW/cellulose):
- Fix: Weather protection; dry substrate; moisture checks before close-up.
- Fire performance/spec:
- Fix: Use rated systems (BROOF(t4) / FM approvals as applicable), correct overlays and separations.
- Load & drainage on inverted/green roofs:
- Fix: Structural check; proper falls (1–2%), water outlets, filter/drain layers.
Quick choice guide
- Best overall performance (flat/pitched re-roof): Warm Roof (PIR/EPS)
- Budget retrofit without stripping roof: Cold Roof (Mineral Wool/Cellulose)
- Terraces/podiums with pavers: Inverted Roof (XPS)
- Thin build-up at tricky details: Hybrid or localized VIP (niche)
- Eco & cavity fill retrofits: Cellulose blown-in (with robust vapor strategy)
Short FAQ
- Do I still need ventilation?
- Cold roofs: yes (eaves/ridge vents). Warm/inverted: ventilation generally not required above the deck, but follow system design.
- UFH in roof/loft rooms—any limits?
- Insulation must meet U-value and airtightness targets; avoid compressing batts; respect service cavities.
- Can I add insulation over old felt?
- Often yes during re-roof (warm roof overlay), if deck is sound and details are updated (VCL, upstands, height transitions).

